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Delamination of the Sidewall 2

Conclusion so far:-

The previous repair (done sometime prior to me purchasing) to this area was not successful in that the glue used, stuck to the wood but failed on the polystyrene. There is the start of water ingress at the bottom rail (most probably past a screw) but should be straight forward to fix (as it is not rotten)

The remedy, as a DIY fix, I am going to glue some wood battens to strengthen the whole area and not rely on the bond to the polystyrene alone. The seat back will screw into the new battens.  I think that will help with the rigidity a great deal. The bottom rail (outside) will have to come off for further investigation. Lower rail reseal

Window rubber removed
The window rubber was getting in the way, so it was removed completely. The side seems very flimsy in that bottom left corner of the window. Its all very well having bonded construction, but when there is no bond!!

Gap in poly
See the gap in the polystyrene? top left, this may have been the cause of that yucky cover strip as condensation would form there.

Closer view of gap 
Closer view of that polystyrene gap and where the wallboard was scored through. When glued back the join should be behind the pelmet, so it will not be seen.

Cutting the poly
To find out if the polystyrene had parted company with the aluminium skin, tried tapping, then decided to cut a channel to see, cutting carefully with a knife.

Chiselling out
Then used a chisel to remove down to the skin, gently does it.

Channel to the floor
Took the channel down to the floor. The polystyrene is solid. To strengthen the side up and make sure there is a good bond I am going to use wooden battens.

More to come off
This part will need re-glueing too. The lines show where I plan to cut the wallboard. The vertical cut going behind the seat side.

Seat side, removed
Seat side needs to be removed, five screws and it was off.

Seat fixings 
Where this seat fixing for the seat back goes I plan to put a strenthening batten in. The other fixing (rusty to the right) is loose too.

Water inlet trim 
Removing the cover trim around the water inlet.

Water inlet 
Next disconnected the electrical connections (made a note of where they go) and the blue water supply pipe.

Wallboard marking 
Marking out next, used a pencil and straight edge to mark where to cut the wallboard.

Cutting the wallboard
Used a ruler and Stanley knife to score the surface, then freehand, kept scoring until through the wallboard.

Peeling off
Again it came away quite easily.

Another gap
There is another gap in the polystyrene on this side of the window.

Metal strip
The dark strap is a rusty piece of metal plate used to spread the load of the upper side bunk bed, just happens a batten was going to go there.

Bottom detail
The bottom of the board. On the right, decided not to take the cut to the floor as it was stuck to the wall very well.

Inserting battens
Cut various slots in the polystyrene to take softwood battens. I used par 34mm x 18mm and cut it to 25mm x 18mm to match the original wood. 25mm being the depth of the polystyrene.

Another view
Started with the uprights either side of the window. Then the cross pieces for strenthening. Even though they are not glued into place at this stage the whole area became a lot more rigid.

Angle brackets
The right upright had to be made like this to miss that metal plate for the bunk. Used wood glue and screws to attach the two together.

More battening
Doubled up the pieces over the water heater (seat will be screwed into it) Also using angle brackets, attaching them to the uprights first. When the wood is glued into place screw to the cross pieces. So removed some polystyrene to be able to do that.

For the blind
Each side of the window extra wood was added to provide a better fixing for the upright of the blind when it goes back on. I had made a note of the position before removing the wallboard.

Taking off the old glue
One of the pieces of wallboard. The old glue was removed with a scraper with the edge filed to make sure it had a sharp edge, took a while.

The glue used
Now for the glue up. These are the products I used. Soudaflex 40FC- wood to aluminium. Everbuild Instant Nails- wood to polystyrene. See Note A; below.

Glueing an upright
First the uprights. Applied a bead of Soudaflex to the wood...

Glue on the polystyrene
and Everbuild Instant Nails to the sides of the polystyrene and pressed into place.

Clmping the upright
At the window, clamps could be used to hold the wood in place at the top.

Page 3- Delamination of the sidewall

Note A. 

I used Soudaflex 40FC  for sticking the new wood to the aluminium skin, it has the right properties, i.e. It will stay stuck when there is a little movement. It is a one component polyurethane sealant. Soudaflex 40FC specification sheet  (The link goes to the Soudal website, Fix All seems to have superceded 40FC)

I used Everbuild Instant Nails  for sticking the new wood to the polystyrene, wallboard to the polystyrene and any wood to wood (I will need a few tubes, so wanted something cost effective) It is a solvent free gap filling adhesive. Everbuild Instant Nails specification sheet

 Page Created 19th November 2008/ Updated 7th December 2008

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